Big Projects

So the company I work for has decided to move a bunch of equipment from one plant to another that will effectively fill the holes we have here in a major production area and then create another expanded minor production area. Truly it is exciting stuff. Since I am working this weekend I thought I would take a break and run down a few of important details when doing a major construction project outside of just dealing with contractors. I think that I have covered the “what to do while the project is running” details before, so this is more the beginning work that occurs.

Planning and permits:

This is sometimes your second step instead of the first but typically it needs to be the first one. When beginning a major project you will need just a general plan get started, goals, basic outline of equipment needed, and an idea of any permits needed. Almost every major project has a goal, something like increased production, energy savings, equipment upgrade, or equipment improvement. Once these basics are listed classify things as a replacement in kind (essentially an equipment swap, no permitting needed), if it will have energy savings, if it will need additional energy, water, air, etc, or could cause pollution. It is important to note that most municipalities now have tax incentives for shown energy savings improvements that can be seen in 1-5 years (up to $40k in rebates dependant on areas), but you have to apply for these rebates up front before the project begins. Once the equipment is installed and running it is too late, I learned this the hard way with a pair of new Trane chillers that were installed at the plant. I found out about the tax credits after the work was complete and nothing was available for us. Also mentioned was the possibility of new power, water, or even air requirements. All will require coordination with the local municipalities for the upgrade and usually permits for construction. Finally the new equipment may need air permits or construction permits to cover government regulations. It is all dependant on what is installed and if any pollution or other materials could be exhausted into the atmosphere or leaked into the ground.

Real planning and project design:

This step is the one that can sometimes swap with step listed above; it will really depend on the project. Every big project requires three things: project scope, project timeline, and project design. For me the most important thing is the project scope. The scope should have all of the guts needed to complete the project successfully. I like to best lay everything out in the scope in an outline, and just list every little detail into it from equipment needed to little things like, “make sure the equipment manuals are included” and “what are the preventative maintenance measures needed for this device”. When I do that I know that as the project continues along I will be able to check off every detail. Typically the next part for me is moving that whole scope into some sort of project timeline software (I use Microsoft Project). I don’t necessarily include all the little details like I do in the scope but the encompassing work for those little details. This part is where to assign a time frame to each task. My advice is to use realistic time frames and realize what can truly be completed in parallel and what cannot. As a young process engineer I made many mistakes with this part by only inserting the best possible outcome for dates and when things didn’t pan out perfectly then I looked like an idiot who didn’t have an idea of what I am doing. See this timeline is typically what your boss sees and your boss’s boss sees and they expect the project to be completed in that timeframe. After all, you made the timeline and you should know what it would take finish the work. So be careful and be realistic because this may be all they ever look at. One other piece of advice is to avoid applying real concrete dates until the project is actually started. Meaning I could make a plan for stuff to occur tomorrow but if the work doesn’t begin until two weeks from tomorrow then my boss may think that I am actually two weeks behind from my plan. Again egg on face occurring. Be careful.

Last in this step is the project design. I think a lot of people make two mistakes while doing this step. The first is that they skip the project scope part, which I think is the most important step. This typically causes the designer to get way too caught up designing without planning, and can typically cause a bunch of double work. With a scope in hand, the designer is simply drawing out the details already known; it is really like a visual checklist. The second is that they can make things too complicated. Designers can easily get into a “paralysis of analysis” when looking at big projects. It is important to be extremely detailed in design but realize when it is important have fine detail and when that pipefitter is going to figure out himself how to cut a whole in the wall and shove a tube through. Again to me the scope is the most important part, it should be there to make sure every minute thing is covered and checked off, the literal design is more of a guide for the project work. Of course this is coming from the guy who is the engineering department, with more people involved in the design process perhaps a bit more detail can be made in the drawings. I just don’t have the time.

Gathering of the usual suspects:

It all comes back to contractors, and this step is usually one of the most difficult. The reason why is that typically you want contractors to see the project, give you a bid the next day, and work shortly thereafter. Reality is to get your contractors in early so that they can have a little time to put together a realistic quote. The more stuff the contractors know about before the bid delivery date, then the more likely the bid will be accurate and cost effective. Contractors are used to this process and for everything they “don’t” know about they will add a “fudge” factor price to cover those costs. So give them a little bit of time to get things gathered. Also, make sure you are sharing the same thing to each contractor; otherwise you are not comparing equal quotes from competing contractors.

Make sure to parade the contractors through the work area and allow them to come in any time during the bidding period to work out some of the little details with their workers and possible sub-contractors. Each should get some sort of copy of the project scope and project plan. The project timeline needs to be shared with them as well, so that they could let you know if any changes to the schedule are needed, like the concrete truck can’t make it that day.

Remember with contractors the mottos are “be firm but fair” and “trust but verify”. They will bend over backwards to make you happy if you are fair with a good contractor, but push people around all of the time, they can just as easily screw you over. Walk that line, but remember whose butt is on the line (hint its not there’s).

Tenure?!?

A question I hear quite a bit now a days is how my generation's work force (I am just shy of 30) has no company loyalty. Well here is why:

Everyday I have seen the 20-30 year veterans of the various famous US companies given plaques for their service, and soon after, shown the door. Along with them priceless knowledge of the company that you may never have available again. My generation has seen their fathers and mothers booted after years of hard work and modest increases in pay. How many of you have been a part of major moves to a new town in your childhood only to see your parents let go by that company 6 months later. When I saw that as a child, I thought, "what is the benefit?" It didn't improve them. Now that I am older, I see that the business system is a pyramid, lots of jobs at the bottom and fewer and fewer at the top. As you progress through a company it is only logical that you may have less and less likely a chance to continue with the company.

Lay-offs suck and seeing people get tossed out really makes you wonder about who you work for. Reality is that my generation will continue to look, if they are smart, every 3-5 years. I know of 3 examples of people I know that switched companies, increased pay by 20% and like their new job better. I am not saying that I condone it (I say stay long enough to keep the company matched retirement benefits and then start looking), but I definitely understand it.

To all the "early" retirees out there, good luck, it may be a difficult road ahead for you. My dad found some luck working in small towns after years in HR in the city and my mom went into work for herself, maybe that helps.

Moving, Learning Lessons, Proving Yourself, and Being Unleashed

Here's a little story about MJ. MJ used to work at plant supporting several assembly cells making lots of cool little products. He did well there, even getting the company out of several jams with their major customers, but found when management changed, he was on the outside looking in. He worked hard and really helped things there, but he was young and he made mistakes at times. It was weird though, the better he got at his job, the more the management thought it was time for him to go. He fought hard to to keep the job, but realized it was futile. MJ took it personally, he thought he had failed to prove himself. So MJ quit, contrary to some of the advise of friends and family, and started preparing himself for a new job.

In that downtime, MJ reflected on what he did wrong, what he could do better, and what he was damn good at. With that he pounded the job boards and recruiters, and after getting several good offers and interviews, found the perfect fit.

MJ used to work with 20 other engineers and answer to dozens of people, the new job consisted of him, alone, supporting the whole factory. Seems scary, but in reality it was freedom. Remembering those traits that had flawed him in the past, MJ went about reinventing himself. He started fixing things, proving himself, and winning over the management. With that lack of engineers and management to answer to, he found the freedom to do what was right with the plant. MJ took on a huge project and made it a success. Then took on another, and another. Those went pretty well too. MJ was succeeding, shaking off a stigma of failure that he felt after losing the battle for his last job.

Today, this day, MJ was given his biggest project yet, and told to make it happen, make it what you want. He realized that day, he had proven himself, and he was now unleashed to actually push the factory into a new direction as he saw it. There was no more thought of failure, it was a good feeling.

What's in your toolbox #2: Manufacturing Engineer's Toolbox

The last time I posted about this we just threw out the basics (and most important items) of what I use day to day. This time around I will concentrate on the down and dirty, essential tools necessary for a manufacturing / factory / process engineer. So enjoy:

The second line of defense (aka more crap for you desk):

Machinery's Handbook
The greatest book ever, also known as the Machinist Bible. This book is the go to place for screw size, tap size, drill size, dimensioning, slip fits, compression fits, material properties. tooling, machining, fasteners, and more. It's just a handy, handy book. I learned the power of the book back in my machinist assistant days and still use it when designing tooling. Any edition ever made is a good edition, I have the 25th addition at work and the 13th edition that I bought from an old Ford machinist at home in my toolbox. Go to Ebay and get yourself one today...

Small AA Maglite
I have three of these, they are just powerful enough to shine bright in large empty room and still fit into a small pocket. Notice mine has some hockey tape on the end, that's for biting with your teeth.

Small Torpedo Level
It's something you just learn to have due to equipment installs. Seems like every piece of large equipment I have installed, needs to be level for proper usage. Mine has a magnetic side which is handy for steel equipment and storage upside down on my desk.

30 ft Tape Measure
This will be a constant theme for my tools, equipment to measure crap with. Some days all I do is measure out areas for new equipment, new rooms, ducting locations, electrical runs, and more. Buy two cause everybody will be borrowing this one. Don't forget to put you name on them, something like stolen from ___. This one is my loner.

Magnetic Pickup Tool
What can I say, I am lazy. Had a employee that worked in one of my areas who was 'older', this was his way to keep up with the young guys. Ever the expert, no bolt got away from his assembly cell. This was the one he gave me, pretty neat.

20 in Toolbox
Bought this on special at Sears for $10. It is the perfect size for me. I have seen engineers with full size tool carts before, but I tend to think that if I am hauling around something that big I should just give in and become a full on maintenance guy. So for me, I don't want to be any bigger than this or I need to find a new company to work for.

A quick note on the tools I keep at work. You won't be impressed, there isn't any Snap-on and just a few Craftsman tools for that matter. The reason is simple, at work tools walk away. Everything I have works fine, its above the quality of Harbor Freight, and some may look a little beaten up, but that is all on purpose. As the maintenance manager here says, it's just enough stuff to get me in trouble. The measurement tools however, usually are pretty nice because I need accurate readings for accurate parts.

The top of the box

30 ft Tape Measure
This is the nice one, the one I don't loan out. It is a Craftsman, if it breaks, I can replace it for free. Alternatively, if it is stolen, it costs me $10 to replace. That is why it is the nice one.

100 ft Surveyor's Tape
For outdoor usage and times that 30 ft of tape isn't enough. Handy for laying out a space for large installs on the factory floor.

Sonin Laser Targeting Range Finder
Work bought toy, very cool. Excellent for finding ceiling heights, or wall to wall lengths. Has a little laser targeting device that helps make sure you have the right distance in mind.

T-square
Handy if you need to cut up extrusion, wood, metal tubing, and bar. Nothing like a nice straight line. Has 45 degree side as well. Heck, I've pulled the metal ruler off sometimes just to use as a straight edge. Just another handy measurement tool.

Complete Screwdriver Set (#0, #1, #2, #3 Phillips & from small to really large Flat-head)
Needed items, really just self explanatory. Get the big Phillips and Flat-head kind as well, you will thank me later.

6 in, two 8 in, and 12 in Crescent Wrenches (aka Third World Combination Wrench Set)
No I don't carry a combination wrench set at work, it's one of those things that I think is overkill for an engineer. My box isn't big enough, and frankly I never know what I will need. Also, you'll learn that factory stuff gets beat on all day anyway, so these won't affect the already rounded nuts you find everywhere. Important though is the two 8 in Crescents, it will be the most common size you encounter. No doubt will be used on a bolt on one side and nut on the other situation.

Crappy Pocket Knife
Good for cutting stuff, duh. By being crappy, it will stay in my box (see the theme).

Needlenose and Regular Pliers
Both come in handy quite often. The needlenose in particular are handy for the electrical work since they typically incorporate the wire cutters in the design. The regular pliers are good for the already rounded nuts you find everywhere.

Wire Strippers
This is the newest addition to the box. At my latest job, I find myself stripping wires a little more than my past experiences. These are the nice Klein brand kind and work infinitely better than the old cheap standby.

Paint Pen, Permanent Marker, and China Marker
Great for marking stuff, duh. Remember sometimes the stuff you are working on is colored black, white, red, etc or it can be greasy or dry, so keep a variety of marking tools on hand to cover your needs.

Standard and Metric Allen (Hex) Key Set – Folding
Just a set I keep on hand to handle all the hex cap screws. I really prefer the L-shape sets, but this ensures that all of mine stay together in one place.

Base of the Box

Master Mechanic Socket Set (48-ish piece)
Okay everything I said about the justification of the Crescent Wrenches can be thrown out. I have a socket set to make sure that I have precisely the right size socket to fit whatever bolt I am playing with. This set isn't quite as well made and reliable as a Craftsman set but is pretty close. Also it fits in the toolbox. I will say however to get a “Guaranteed for Life” set because I constantly am replacing the ratchet. Or at least get a spare ratchet that is of higher quality. My set is both a 1/4” and 1/2” drive with small to medium sizes (4mm to 15mm on the metric side). When the job calls for bigger bolts, I usually borrow from the maintenance guys. They probably should be there anyway.

Allen (Hex) Head Socket Set
This set is standard, but I probably could use a metric one as well. Great addition to the regular set.

L-shaped Allen (Hex) Key Set
How did that get in there? These are the best for bolts. Long side for better torque, short side for twisting speed.

Mitutoyo 8 in Dial Calipers
Leftover from my machinist assistant days. I prefer 8 inch because well, it has the same accuracy of a 6 inch and I always seemed to need a measurement just over 6 inches. It's a machinist thing. Regardless, get one, I have bought one for every intern I've had. If you are looking for one don't buy the cheap-o, no-name brand. Go to Ebay, find gently used Starrett, Mitutoyo, Brown & Sharpe, Fowler, & Mahr calipers. I like dials over digital but each of the brands listed above make nice digitals that are oil resistant and highly accurate.

That's it, put something together like this and you should be good for years to work out on the factory floor.

So now that I have shown you my toolbox, what's in yours?

In other news: Work Related Education / Certification

I know there are tens and tens of readers out there wondering why it has been a little bit since the last posting and that is due to some of my work related stretch goals. Specifically I have been doing Lean Six Sigma Yellow Belt training. At the end I will be an officially certified yellow belt. It is low tiered compared to the green belt and black belt certification, but it is a start.

I won't go into the training in this post but talk more about my goals as an engineer. As an engineer, most people want to know what goals do you have to move up in a company, my goals deal with moving anywhere with any company. You see I am concentrating my efforts to make myself into an all around manufacturing/plant/process/project engineer. I hope that I never am pigeon holed into a certain industry or type of position. I still want to move up in the totem pole, but first I want to know the skills that it takes to become more well rounded so that I could apply for pretty much any industrial background. I have been working as an engineer in some capacity for 6 years now and in a manufacturing/machine shop capacity for around 10 years. In that time I have worked as a engineering intern, process engineer, and project engineer in the automotive industry, motorcycle industry, hydraulic industry, and chemical industry. I have significant experience in metal fabrication, machining, production assembly, hydraulics, HVAC systems, and chemical production. It is pretty wide ranging, but I want experience with more.

So every year I lay out a plan for what else I want to do, and with my current company I can get some certifications that I have always wanted. I feel this is something everyone should do. So for this year, MJ will become a yellow belt in lean six sigma, take classes for Allen Bradley PLC programming and troubleshooting, take management styles, and refer to himself in the third person. All should make it that much more possible for me to pick and choose where my next job may be. This should be a good year.